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Ideal for the home or pro shop, this 10K RPM saw with micro-blade arrow saw makes precision cuts while collecting shavings and dust while cutting all types of arrows including, carbon, aluminum and carbon aluminum hybrids. Features an adjustable measuring scale for precision cuts to a wide variety of lengths.

Ideal for the home or pro shop, this 10K RPM saw with micro-blade arrow saw makes precision cuts while collecting shavings and dust while cutting all types of arrows including, carbon, aluminum and carbon aluminum hybrids. Features an adjustable measuring scale for precision cuts to a wide variety of lengths

This product is oversize due to the weight and/or dimensions, which will result in a higher shipping rate during checkout. Products designated as “Oversize” are not eligible for shipping promotions.Arrow shaft length (not including point) should be at least from the bottom of the nock grove to the button + 1″. If the fraction of the length is over .5″ use the next highest length. So for 27.6″ to 28.5″ use 28″. Easton revised the recurve spine selections, the 2015 Easton catalogue has the old bow weights, the 2016 catalogue and their online selector have revised bow weights. These charts are only a rough guide and can show some discrepancy depending on the individual archer. The data used here has been collect from various internet sites so may be incomplete, missing or wrong so check with the maker or supplier before buying. Please check you are allowed to use all carbon arrows before buying them as mixed use and school playing fields often prohibit them. Carbon fiber splinters being hard to remove from flesh because they snap easily and are not rejected by the body like wood and metal. A step up from the rotary cutting tool is an angle grinder. If you work a lot with metal or do welding, you are very familiar with what an angle grinder can do. It can make easy work of cutting straight lines in carbon fiber as well. A standard metal cutting abrasive wheel is the tool of choice for this type of cutting. As always, be careful, an angle grinder is a powerful tool and should be used with caution and the appropriate protective gear. A face shield would be a recommended upgrade over safety glasses.

Most of you already have a hacksaw and/or coping saw in the garage. A metal cutting blade on one of these saws will work well for cutting straight lines in carbon fiber. Even though the blade will dull quickly they are low cost and get the job done. You want to select a blade with a higher TPI (teeth per inch) this will give you a better cut. A thinner blade will help make sharper corners and get more detail. For interior features a hole can be pre-drilled that allows the blade to pass through the part on the inside. (See our other post on drilling carbon fiber.)A jigsaw works well for cutting straight lines and getting into tight corners. A standard metal cutting blade will work OK but it will burn out after about 3-4 feet of cutting. Bosch makes a carbon fiber jigsaw blade that works incredibly well, you should be able to cut over 10 times more using one of these blades than a typical metal blade. You will want to use a backing material underneath the carbon fiber to get a cleaner cut. We like jig saws that you can attach a vacuum to, which helps control the dust.Can you cut carbon fiber after you clear coat it or is it best to clear coat after cutting? I’m making a dash panel and it would be much easier to clear coat one big piece then cut to smaller pieces. I dont care if the edges are clear coated.

For cleaning up interior features or hand milling more complex shapes you can use the aluminum oxide grinding bit or a rotary sanding bit included in your Dremel took kit for the detail work.Hi Sean, I think it is best to clear coat after cutting because there is a good chance you could scratch the clear coat during cutting or edge clean up. You certainly could clear coat first, but then you would have to be very careful while cutting, even if you put a protective film over the surface.

The bandsaw would cut through the fiber well. It likely wouldn’t get dull with that amount of cutting. Make sure you have a good method for collecting the dust and wear proper protection.

Carbon fiber dust is an irritant and can cause itching if gets on your skin or difficulty breathing if you inhale it. Proper safety equipment will help prevent this. The following PPE is recommended.

The best way I have found to cut carbon is with an air tool and an abrasive disk. One thing not mentioned here is carbon dust is conducive and will eventually destroy an electrical tool. The wet saw is a great idea if you can stand the mess.Both clear coat and epoxy can be sanded and polished to remove scratches or to level low/high spots, assuming you have enough thickness of the clear to sand and polish down. If it’s easier to clear coat a sheet of carbon fiber, and cut out the piece parts, you can touch up the edges either by sanding (progressively) and polishing the abraded edges, and/or you can apply clear coat or epoxy to the perimeter edge and feather it in.

Spending a little time up front for good preparation is an important part of producing quality parts, and it will save time and frustration later. These following tips will help.

The dust generated could be quite significant. Make sure you have good dust collection and proper protection. We are going to be posting our recommended bits in a new blog post soon. A carbide fiberglass router would work well. Diamond-coating helps with durability but isn’t required for cutting. McMaster-Carr sells a couple that work well.If you have a rotary cutting tool such as a Dremel, this is a great starting point for cutting carbon fiber. A standard abrasive metal cutting wheel works, but it will degrade quickly. If you are doing a lot of cutting you will be better off getting a diamond coated cutting wheel that is used for cutting tile. They are more expensive, but they will hold up much longer.

First thing’s first: before you get saw-happy, you’re going to want to figure out exactly how long your arrows need to be to ensure that every shot flies straight and true.You’ll probably be pleased to learn that cutting arrows by hand doesn’t require much in the way of specialized equipment. Even without an expensive arrow cutoff saw, it’s possible to achieve professional-grade cuts using only:

That leaves only one solution: cutting overly long arrows down a size that complements your particular draw length and makes for more comfortable, and therefore more precise, shooting.

If possible, pick out an old or inexpensive arrow to serve as a sacrificial lamb for your first cut. While this method is a proverbial walk in the park, it’s best to reserve any potential early mistakes for a shaft it won’t pain you to have to throw in the trash, especially if you’ve never done any precision cutting.If you already have a Goldilocks arrow in your collection (lucky you), you can use it as a ready-made guide for measuring and cutting your new arrows. Simply hold your template arrow up side-by-side with a stock arrow—making sure the nock ends are even with one another—and use a Sharpie to mark the point on the latter where the shaft of the former terminates. Congratulations! You’ve just hand-cut your first arrow. All that’s left to do now is repeat the process for each of the remaining arrows you want to resize. If you’re uncertain as to what length will work best for you, don’t fret. Deducing your ideal measurement is as easy as drawing your bow. While you’re in position, have a helper measure the distance between the nock point on the string and the throat of the grip on the bow’s front end. Be sure to jot down the resulting number, as you’ll be using it to cut all your new arrows to size from here on out.Anytime you’re cutting with consequences, you’ll be well-served to heed the old handyman’s adage: “measure twice, cut once.” Take one more look at the marking line on your stock arrow to be sure it’s where you want it. It may help to knock and draw the arrow a couple of times to confirm that the line falls flush with the front of the grip.

As you’re clamping your arrow, lower the moveable arm of your miter or abrasive saw to make sure the edge of the cutting disc is properly aligned with the new endpoint you’ve selected for the shaft.

If the saw you’re working with has a vise clamp, fit your first arrow into the slot and turn the lever or wheel until it’s being gripped snugly by the clamping surfaces. If not, use a separate tabletop vise to immobilize the arrow and give the cutting disc sufficient purchase on the shaft.

Once you’ve arrived at your ideal shaft length, it’s time to get down to business. Plug in your saw, put on your safety goggles, grab an arrow, and make sure you have your target measurements handy.Any halfway decent miter or abrasive saw should come with an integrated vise clamp. This clamp is designed to hold items of various sizes in place so you can focus on making clean cuts.

Cutting out a small section of the shaft is a way of splitting the difference. A slightly shorter arrow allows the shooter to utilize a more natural draw pattern and improves their sense of feel and overall accuracy as a result.Sure, you could go to the trouble of taking your arrows to a bowhunter supply store or archery pro shop to have them custom-cut by an experienced professional. Or you could trim them down to your desired specifications yourself in less than an hour and save yourself a considerable amount of time and hassle in the process.Cutting carbon arrows is easier than you might think. All you need is a single straightforward measurement, the right cutting tool and accessories, and a few spare minutes.The abrasive sandpaper will help wear down sharp edges and neutralize any textural inconsistencies in the surface. Such minuscule imperfections might seem like a big deal, but they could keep your inserts and tips from fitting properly later on.

Carbon fiber arrows are a bow hunter’s best friend. They’re strong, lightweight, well-balanced, and practically impervious to deformation and wear. There’s only one problem—they come in standardized lengths, which likely doesn’t match your arm’s length.Short, stubby arrows are an even greater cause for concern. Not only are they prone to erratic flight behavior, but if you’re not careful, they can also slip off the rear end of the rest and end up caught behind the grip. In the worst-case scenario, the force of the bowstring into a jammed-up arrow can cause it to bend to the point of snapping, sending razor-sharp shards of carbon fiber flying towards anything in close proximity, which includes your bow arm.

If for some reason you’re not satisfied with your initial cut, stick the arrow back in the clamp and give it another go. Cutting discs are excellent for making meticulously clean cuts like the kind needed for cutting carbon arrows, so there’s no need to worry about ruining your hard work in an attempt to remove a little excess material.

If you want to leave yourself a little margin for error, scoot the shaft down a shade so that the cutting disc makes contact just past the measurement line toward the tip end. Doing so will give you the freedom to make further modifications as you see fit.

Arrows that are too long generally don’t have enough “spine,” or shaft stiffness. Their high degree of flexion can cause them to veer off the intended trajectory over long distances, which is not what you want when you’re hunting live animals or trying to win a target shooting competition.Stock status is updated frequently. Products may sell-out or be replenished at any time of day. For articles showing ‘Limited Stock’ we recommend contacting the store to verify availability before your visit.

Only stands along the edges of fields, or hung from brushy fence lines, produce the potential for longer shots and bring in the need for greater arrow speed.Finding the perfect shaft is great way to spend the off-season, and experimenting with arrows is just plain fun – it’s just another excuse to get out and shoot your bow. And there’s no better way to stay in touch with the sport you love. Using data compiled by independent bow testers, I’ve been able to pull out the amount a typical aggressive bow’s efficiency drops as arrow weight goes down. This translates directly into penetration energy lost. The reason for this being that the smaller diameter shafts also have a smaller surface area than the larger diameter shafts, creating less friction while pasing through the target.

By dropping the shaft weight from 9 grains down to 7.5 grains per pound, the bow’s efficiency drops by about 3.5 to 5 percent (depending upon the bow), which means the arrow carries 3.5 to 5% less penetration energy. That’s not a huge change.When the shaft weight goes from 9 grains per pound of draw force down to 6 grains per pound (the middle of the lightweight arrow range), the bow’s efficiency drops another 4 percent.

When shot from bows in the 70-pound range, these shafts produce arrow speeds in the 260 fps range – slightly slower, of course, for lighter poundage bows.

This produces a built-in penetration advantage and a faster arrow. Therefore, a bowhunter with a 70 to 75-pound bow can still get good speed from an arrow on the light end of the heavyweight scale or from the heavy end of the mid-weight scale.Mid-weight arrows are not nearly as prone to plane off line as much faster shafts, yet they still sail flat enough to compensate for some range estimation errors that commonly occur when shooting 25 to 30 yards.But, by the same token, you have to also consider the size of the beast. Elk are big. Thus the dilemma: your arrow should be sized to pack plenty of punch but you still need to keep speed up for those longer shots.And, third, many bowhunters believe that carbon arrows penetrate better on game. Additionally, small diameter carbon arrows can be tuned; they just require more attention.

But, if you have good shooting form and a well-tuned hunting system, a fast arrow will improve your chances for a clean kill. Some bowhunters snicker at the need for arrow speed.

Let me clear this up with an example. Suppose a bowhunter shoots a 70-pound bow with a 30-inch draw length. For him, a lightweight arrow is going to weigh 350 to 455 grains.

In other words, if you need the extra arrow speed to flatten your trajectory for shots that typically range longer than 25 yards, you won’t lose so much energy that you risk insufficient penetration.

Accessory breakdown is all too often the result of such high vibration. If you decide to go this light make sure you do plenty of shooting with the shaft of choice to make sure that your overall system is up to the task.Assuming the bow has an AMO speed rating of about 235 fps (typical of most moderately aggressive bows on the market right now), this bowhunter will be getting speeds of around 275 to 300 fps.

You’re trading price against quality. Understanding these tradeoffs is at the heart of your ability to arrive at the perfect arrow for your hunting goals.

Overall, such a fletching scheme is less stable than five-inch fletching with a more aggressive helical offset angle. That’s the gist of this tradeoff.

Where a combination of penetration and speed are important, one of the new heavier carbon shafts are an excellent choice. The trick, of course, is defining your goals as clearly as possible.In so doing, there’s a greater likelihood that your fletchings will contact the rest. This where the drop-away arrow rests and full-capture arrow rests come in handy.Whether hunting broadhead-resistant elk in the aspen parks of a Colorado mountain or open country whitetails in the creeks of Nebraska, the arrows you carry in your quiver will bear upon your chances for success. There are three reasons not to give up on carbon, however. First, carbon arrows are very durable. Second, carbon arrows are light in weight for those bowhunters looking for maximum speed. Under most deer hunting conditions a heavyweight arrow in the 8 to 9 grains per pound range is a fine choice producing arrow speeds in the 220 to 235 fps range.