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There is little to no long-term success when seeding an entire lawn or large sections of your property at this time of year. Doing so could set your lawn back a few to several years. You’ll be constantly battling crabgrass and weeds.We service parts of Norfolk and Bristol County, Massachusetts. Towns include Foxborough, Mansfield, Wrentham, Walpole, Plainville, Franklin, Norfolk, Stoughton, Sharon, Norwood, Canton, North Attleborough, Attleboro, Easton, Norton, and parts of Medfield, Medway & Millis. Learn more about our Complete Lawn Care program.

Early spring is second to last on this list for a few reasons. Yes, the seed is likely to grow just fine because of the typically wet, cool weather. However, here’s the caveat: Under many circumstances, pre-emergent crabgrass control and broadleaf weed control will negatively impact the new turf. It can also be challenging to near impossible to keep young turf alive through the brutal New England summer. We do not recommend aerating and overseeding (or renovating) an entire lawn at this time of year. While aerating is beneficial, the process can actually pull weed seeds from the soil depths to the surface, exacerbating weed problems. However, if you want to patch up a few small spots, this may be a fine time to do so.By mid-October your window to seed is usually rapidly closing. A mixed bag of seed or hydroseed can take upwards of 4 to 6 weeks to emerge and establish itself to the point that it’s able to survive the winter. Remember, at this stage in the turf’s life it’s not all about the blade…it’s about its root system. The harder the soil (due to it being frozen) the more difficult it is for roots to penetrate deep underground. At this time of year use perennial rye grass, which grows faster.

When you do seed, watch it closely. Kentucky bluegrass mix can take upwards of 4 to 6 weeks to fully emerge while perennial rye can take 1 to 2 weeks. If you seed during drought conditions, and the seed doesn’t take, don’t hesitate to seed again. Getting something established before the ground freezes is paramount and will make a big difference in what you’re able to do with the new turf the subsequent spring. The thicker your turf is in the fall, the better it’ll hold crabgrass pre-emergent the following year.The last five weeks of summer to early autumn, pending the weather, is the best time of year to seed. At this time, day and nighttime temperatures are cooling, dew is more present on lawns, and annual broadleaf weeds and crabgrass are dying. This means new turf can easily establish with little to no competition. If you’re going to seed, this is absolutely the best time of year to do it. Don’t miss your opportunity otherwise you’ll be waiting an entire year for the next window to open.

This is one of the most refined and visually appealing grasses of them all. It grows very slowly and is kept short by mowers that are set to 1.5 inches. It doesn’t need to be mowed very frequently for a healthy-looking environment. When it comes to the texture and appearance of this grass, it’s amazingly fine. This type of grass is suitable for lawns which are only used for special events. It needs a lot of sunlight as it doesn’t do well in the shade.If you’re looking to revitalize the appearance of your lawn and are all set to tear out the brown, patchy, dying grass of your current yard, then you must make a purchase decision quickly. Visit sod.com to get your new lawn today!It’s crucial for you to understand that not all grasses are equal. Marathon grass was carefully crafted to suit all your needs. It’s available at affordable sod prices and is a blend of two tall fescues, Baja and Hubbard 87. This is a blend that was specially chosen by the manufacturers for the Southern California climate. This region is home to lush coastal areas along with barren deserts. Every barren desert requires a durable and hardy grass that can survive in harsh conditions. In terms of appearance and feel, you should know that Marathon grass grows very densely with a fine and appealing texture to it. Marathon grass is unique because it’s bright green in color and resistant to all types of diseases. These are the features of Marathon grass that make it the most famous among all the grasses for homeowners.

Again, this is one of the most popular sod choices for homeowners. It is a type of grass that’s praised for its rare beauty and ease of care which makes it a perfect choice for those who really want their yard to look beautiful. This Marathon grass has a slightly coarse texture so you can easily enjoy it barefoot or in sandals. It maintains a medium green color during its lifetime. With its short, dense, and narrow blades, it will give your garden a carpet-like look. This type of grass is best for areas with partial shade because it requires more sunlight than the original Marathon grass. It’s used in parks and golf courses.

In order to get around your half marathon in exactly 2 hours, you would need to run a 9 minutes 9 seconds per mile pace, or 5 minutes 41 seconds per kilometer.

Access the plan via the TrainingPeaks website and app, track your workouts in real-time against the plan, and get performance data analysis on your progress.

Running a sub-2-hour half marathon is a great benchmark for the 13.1-mile (21.1-km) distance: it shows a certain level of training and underlying fitness. It also just so happens to be slightly faster than average – the average half-marathon time is 2 hours and 55 seconds!

Whether it’s hills, fatigue, toilet stops, crowds at the start, or that old knee injury, something is likely to slow you down at some point in your run.‘Tapering’ is the term given to winding down prior to a race. It’s when you scale back your runs and let your body rest, recover and relax – so come race day you are ready to go. It all depends on what your current running level is, how much free time you have for training, and how comfortable you want to be during the race. For this reason, it’s hard to put an exact number on it without being too prescriptive. The paces and training plans I’m sharing are specifically aimed at getting you to the finish line in just under 2hrs. If you want to smash that, that’s great – but the advice below might not be best suited for you. The truth is, when I am aiming for a 2 hr half marathon I’ll constantly check my GPS and try to always be a little under the 2-hour pace, by a few seconds per mile/km. Here, I’ve worked backward from the core goal of breaking the 2hr mark. As with a lot of my articles, the key focus is on getting PACE right. You want to train at the right pace, and run a consistent pace on race day.

Runners who actually get faster throughout the race run ‘negative splits’ – this is the ideal state for running a half or full marathon, but takes a lot of preparation. Assuming you’re closer to the ‘novice’ end of the spectrum, we’ll say your goal should be to run ‘even splits’.

Half marathons are rife with runners that have no pacing strategy. They go out too fast then because of this they hit the wall, or get injured later on. These are the people who dash past you in the first few hundred metres of the race.

OK, so until now I’ve been advocating an even pace. That’s all well and good if your half marathon is pretty flat, but chances are there are going to be at least a couple of ups and downs in there.

The half marathon is a great distance event – it’s a challenging but achievable distance run for new runners, and still long enough to make seasoned runners push themselves.Many half marathon runners are starting at zero, and immediately go running three or four times a week – this approach can lead to imbalances and injury quickly.the downloadable half marathon training plan, is this for a complete novice or if you want to complete the race in under 2 hours? I’m unsure on how to customize it even though I have read your post. Still very confused therefore I would rather just follow one that is already done. Can you help me please.If you only have a couple of minor hills, then you won’t have to account for them much. But once you are running hilly halfs, you’ve really got to look at the elevation profile of the race and plan out when to run fast and when to run slow. A general rule of thumb that works well for most runners is the 10% Rule. This states that you should only increase your mileage by 10% every week in order to prevent over-training. A runner who runs a consistent pace throughout the run is said to run ‘even splits’ – this means that when you review your timing chip data, each section will have taken roughly the same amount of time.Your location impacts your climate, which in turn affects the type of grass you lay down and when it should be seeded. For example, many parts of the south use warm-season grasses to handle the temperate climate that prevails all year long. Other parts of the country, such as the midwest and far north, experience freezing temperatures that require cool-season grasses.Cool-season grasses, including Kentucky bluegrass, tall fescue, fine fescue, and perennial ryegrass, fare better in areas of the country with temperate summers and chilly winters. This type of grass is dormant during the winter and grows during the fall and spring. It’s recommended that you plant your cool-season grass seed in late summer or early fall before temperatures dip below freezing.If perfecting this timing sounds overly complex, full-service lawn companies such as TruGreen lawn care can attend to seeding and fertilizing your lawn on the right schedule. Unsurprisingly, warm-season grasses thrive in warmer climates. These grasses, including Bahia grass, Bermuda grass, zoysia grass, centipede grass, St. Augustine, and other turfgrasses, germinate in air temperatures above 80 degrees Fahrenheit. Yes, you can plant grass seed too early in the spring. Planting too early in the spring can cause poor germination, which harms the growing seeds. As such, wait for the air and soil temperature to warm up enough to plant your grass seed.Planting grass seed is an efficient way to create a fuller and greener lawn that gives your home an appealing look and provides a lush environment for outdoor fun. However, you can’t throw down seeds at any time and expect perfect results. Grass seeding should be completed at the right time to ensure proper germination and growth in your lawn.

When your soil has become stagnant and compacted, it’s time to aerate your lawn. This loosens your tightly-packed soil and helps with weed control while fighting the stress from droughts. Try simple DIY methods like garden forks or aerator shoes for a lower cost of aeration. However, for more tightly compacted soil, you may want to use lawn care professionals.

If you live in an area of the country where temperatures stay fairly consistent year round, you can typically plant warm-season grasses from early spring to late fall. However, if your yard experiences the highs and lows of traditional seasons, be sure to plant your grass in late spring or early summer. You can plant grass seed in the fall to get it to grow in the spring through a process called dormant seeding. This type of seeding is done by putting down seed while the ground is not yet frozen but is still cold enough to prevent seed growth until the spring. March is too early to plant most grass seeds. Unless you live in a warm region, temperatures will be too low at this time of year. Be sure to wait until daily temperatures average around 80 degrees Fahrenheit to plant grass.

In addition to the temperature, which impacts the season you should plant your cool- or warm-season grass, it’s also important to keep an eye on other weather conditions. For example, light rain may help seeds grow, though a heavy pour could wash seeds away. Check the radar to ensure a heavy storm isn’t approaching your area in the days after seeding.Affiliate Disclosure: This Old House may be compensated if you purchase through links on our website… Read More. Our Reviews Team is committed to delivering honest, objective, and independent reviews on home products and services.

While many homeowners have a lawn care schedule in the spring, it’s not enough to just complete seeding at any point during the season. To ensure proper growth, you should consider your location as well as the type of grass you have, as these factors influence the right seeding conditions.

Much of a seed’s growth depends on the pH levels of your soil. Since every lawn’s pH is different, testing your soil is important to determine if it’s acidic, neutral, or basic. Based on these results, you’ll know which minerals and nutrients your soil is missing. Many home improvement stores, such as Lowe’s or Home Depot, sell simple five- or six-step DIY soil testing kits. If you prefer to use a professional, many full-service companies will do it for you.Fertilizing provides new lawns with concentrated nutrients needed while establishing a strong root system. Cool-season grasses should be fertilized using a spreader in the fall, while warm-season grasses can be fertilized throughout the summer. Many homeowners choose a starter fertilizer, which uses nutrients to meet the needs of growing seeds until the root system develops.

It’ll take some time to see results. Cool-season grasses will begin to germinate in five to seven days, while warm-season grasses can take up to three weeks.

The best month to put grass seed down depends on the type of grass you have. The best time to plant grass seed for cool-season grasses is in early fall or around September. For warm-season grasses, late spring or early summer is the optimal time.No matter which type of grass you want to grow, be sure to continue lawn care even after the initial planting. If this process sounds too time-intensive, you may want to consider a lawn care service to seed, fertilize, and maintain your yard throughout the year. Our recommendation is TruGreen, a provider that offers comprehensive services and seeding.

For many people, springtime is the season for completing yard work and other outdoor projects. You’ll need to know the proper time for grass seeding in the spring to get the best results. Read on to learn more about the factors that influence seeding times, how to prepare your lawn for planting, and how to maintain growth throughout the year.

Before planting new seed, it’s important to remove any inconsistencies in your lawn, such as rocks and debris. Additionally, be sure to level the various peaks and valleys in your yard with a soil mixture that consists of sand, topsoil, and compost. Don’t just use topsoil, as this fresh mixture may contain weed seeds and other harmful nutrients.

So, what’s the verdict? Marathon grass is a great option for homeowners looking for a low-maintenance lawn that still looks good. If you have time to put in some extra work, tall fescue can be a great choice, too. But no matter which variety of grass you choose, remember to follow our tips for how to care for your lawn and keep it looking its best all year long!

That said, it offers many benefits – one of the biggest being that it requires infrequent mowing. Damaged or brown spots, though, might be visible for longer since it does regrow so slowly.Although Marathon II grows more slowly than Marathon II, it still recovers quite well. It can handle regular traffic as long as this does not occur on a daily basis. This kind of grass is best used for accent lawns or landscape design purposes only – this isn’t where you’ll want to let your kids hang out and play football!

It grows quickly, recovers well from daily traffic, and is popular for family yards and recreation areas. It just doesn’t show the wear and tear quite as much as other types of grass.

This can be confusing to explain since, technically, Marathon grass is tall fescue. All Marathon products are tall fescue grass species – but have been refined and cultivated to offer many additional benefits.In short, the tall fescue you can buy just about anywhere is not necessarily the same as Marathon. Though it’s the same species it doesn’t have the more refined characteristics of the grasses in the Marathon line.

The biggest challenge of growing tall fescue is that, like Marathon II and III, it doesn’t recover from damages easily. This is because it grows in clumps and spreads from the base of the plant. This makes it easier to contain – but also makes it slow to reestablish itself.The Original Marathon grass, in particular, is noted for being more durable and having a faster rate of growth. Because of this, it bounces back quickly when damaged. It has a strong disease resistance as well.

Also known as the Original Marathon, this year-round sod is prized for its durability and beauty. It’s well rounded, meaning it doesn’t perform extraordinarily well in any one category – but has decent rankings in just about all of them.

For starters, all Marathon grass types are more durable than other cool season varieties of tall fescue that are available for use in southern California.When it comes to healthy, lush lawns, there are many options homeowners have to choose from. Two of the most popular types of grass are Marathon grass and tall fescue. Both have their pros and cons, but what’s the difference between them?

It tolerates shade well and establishes quickly from seed. In fact, its extensive root system can easily reach up to three feet deep – much deeper than most other cool-season grasses – which is what makes it so tolerant of heat and drought. It grows well in warm summer temperatures and stays green during the cool.When considering the benefits of Marathon grass vs. tall fescue, it’s necessary to first break down the differences between the three types of Marathon grasses.Southland Sod Farms produced the first Marathon sod in 1983, particularly for the Southern California climate. Over the years, the popularity of this grass has spread to other regions with similar climates. The company has also developed two varieties of the original Marathon – Marathon II and Marathon III.

The best time to plant Marathon seed is during spring or fall. Marathon is a cool-season grass that needs to develop a deep root system to help it resist heat and drought. Spring and fall are suitable seasons, as there’s enough rainfall to support germination and growth. This is also a perfect time to allow the grass to get established and withstand the harsh summer and winter months.The small holes will allow air, water, and essential nutrients to find their way into the soil. Ensure the holes are deep enough to give the roots adequate oxygen, water, and nutrients.

Marathon III has a fine texture for people who prefer walking around barefoot. It’s also ideal for homeowners who prefer grass with the least maintenance. This means you can keep your grass healthy and appealing without frequent mowing. Ensure to mow your Marathon 3 grass between 1.5 and 3 inches.

Marathon and St Augustine are popular warm-season grasses you can plant in your yard. If you want to learn how they differ, this table provides their key differences.Marathon is a heat-resistant turf grass created from a blend of Baja and Hubbard 87, both of which are tall fescues. While some companies produce different versions of this fescue blend, the authentic Marathon turf grass comes from Southland Sod Farms.

We hope our guide has given you a lot of helpful information about our sod varieties. Although you may place sod orders online, you can always call one of our stores to order and talk to our landscaping experts who can guide you in choosing sod that fits your recreational, activity, or entertaining needs. Although it is possible to use Greenwave™ as traditional turf grass when it’s cut to a height of 2-inches., It is ill-advised except in areas where Marathon™ and other sod varieties are unsuitable because of full shade. Greenwave ™ is not suitable for any level of activity, or anything but minimal foot traffic. It is prone to developing thatch. Tifgreen™ sod requires consistent care, which can involve time-consuming trimming to create and maintain the desired, visually appealing, manicured look. It must have concrete borders to contain it. Tifgreen™ goes into dormancy over the winter.

St. Augustine™ has more shade tolerance than any sod we carry. It is prone to developing lots of thatching, and it needs to be contained in concrete b.orders. St. Augustine™ goes into dormancy during the winter. Pureblue™ Lite is an improved variety of the elite bluegrass blend. It grows best in moderate coastal areas. By that, we mean areas that aren’t subject to salt spray because this grass cultivar doesn’t tolerate salinity. It is also unsuitable for inland valley areas or warm and arid regions. Grow in soil with excellent drainage. Its appeal is its dense medium-fine texture and elegant appearance. And because it requires so much care, the maintenance is best left to knowledgeable individuals or professionals. That’s the key to maintaining a highly desirable elegant, and refined look. Pureblue™ Lite stays green all year. Marathon I (the original cultivar), is designed for family and recreational use. It is the most durable variety in the Marathon line. It can withstand the most abuse and stand up to unlimited foot traffic. Original Marathon recovers from injury faster than other cultivars. It has a coarse texture. It is the most shade-tolerant Marathon variety that can tolerate up to 40% shade. Cut this cultivar to a height of between 2 ½-and-3 ½-inches tall. It will stay a medium shade of green all year. Think of Original Marathon as the best all-purpose grass with the highest durability – except when subjected to dog abuse.St. Augustine™ is a coarse-textured sod cultivar. It spreads through the thick-stemmed runners it produces. It is native to the southern part of the country where consistent warm temperatures and high humidity levels prevent cool-season grass cultivars from thriving.

We rarely stop to think about the fact that sod provides the soil beneath it with a protective shield. When you look at the landscape in the aftermath of natural disasters, you gain a better understanding of the risk that these catastrophes pose for soil erosion. Well-established sod develops an extensive root system that helps the grass protect the soil beneath it from erosion.

As Southern California residents, we value our climate and the outdoor lifestyle it affords us. We spend a lot of time thinking about and planning before we choose plants and flowers for our gardens. And we understand the importance of curb appeal when we’re thinking about landscaping for the front of our properties. We believe that most of us don’t think twice about the importance of choosing the right sod for our property, or what we need to consider when selecting sod.Marathon III Lite isn’t grown in the soil like the other cultivars in this sod family. It grows in a hydroponic soilless substrate, the result of which makes the sod rolls lighter and easier to install. But because Southland grows this cultivar hydroponically, it requires constant attention to maintain water and nutrient levels, and other environmental factors. Consequently, it is the most expensive product in the Marathon™ sod product line. We are proud to be an exclusive retailer for Southland Sod. Our inventory of sod products come from Southland Sod Farms in Oxnard, California. They grow sod that is ideally suited for growth throughout our Southern California service area. Most sod cultivars are cut in 5-square foot rolls. Sod cannot be delivered on Sundays or Mondays. Tifgreen™ is a low-growing, very dense, fine-textured hybrid Bermuda grass cultivar. Its main uses are as a recreational turf, on athletic fields, and frequently for golf course putting greens.Marathon III® is the slowest growing of the three Marathon™ cultivars, so it needs mowing with less frequency. It offers an outstanding balance of good looks and low maintenance. It has a medium-to-fine texture, and it maintains its dark green color all year. It is considered the state-of-the-art dwarf fescue sod variety that offers a combination of slow growth, and an elegant dark green, almost carpet-like look when it is maintained at mowing heights of between 1 ½-and-3-inches. Marathon III Lite is only suitable for low levels of activity, and it takes longer than any Marathon™ cultivar to recover from injury.

When brown spots first appear observe them from one day to the next. If more develop you probably have an active fungus. During periods of high humidity small six inch diameter spots may multiply, overlapping to become a large area. The grass may be collapsed to a point of lying matted flat and rotting. This is symptomatic of the fungus pythium. Reduce the frequency of watering so that the diseased areas will dry out. Also, make sure that when water is reapplied it is between 6 am and 8 am. Lightly rake up collapsed matted areas to air out in order to prevent recovering shoots from suffocating. Use a broad spectrum fungicide such as Daconil or Fore as recommended by your nurseryman. Always apply the fungicides according to label directions. Another option is to call a lawn care service.Fertilize one month after installation and every month thereafter throughout the fall, winter, and spring. Avoid fertilizing during July and August. If your lawn is yellowish light green in color overall it is an indication that fertilizer is needed. For best results, be sure to use Marathon All-Season Lawn Fertilizer – nitrogen-rich for quick greening, and formulated especially for your Marathon lawn. We also recommend the use of Marathon Sod & Seed Starter, which promotes strong root structure and quicker establishment. If you did not use any pre-plant fertilizer during soil preparation, we recommend using Marathon Sod & Seed Starter one week after installation.

Water Sod lightly after each 200 square feet are installed, to prevent wilting. After all the sod is down and rolled, turn on your sprinklers and let them run until the sod is good and soaked. To keep it that way, for the first week water until runoff begins once every few hours at 7 am, 11 am and 2 pm. During the second week water twice a day at 7 am and 2 pm. During the third week water all Marathon Sod once a day at 7 am. Eventually taper back to once every two or three days. Adjust according to weather and season – water more frequently during warm/dry or windy weather. Do not water new sod between 4 pm and 4 am.Begin mowing weekly one week after installation. Using a rotary mower, cut Marathon Sod at a height of 2 to 3 inches, Marathon II at a height of 1 1/2 to 2 inches. Marathon III should be cut at a height of 1 1/2 to 1 3/4 inches. Do not mow off more than 1/3 of the length of the grass blades at one time. A sharp mower is essential – white or yellow grass blade tips are the result of a dull mower. Always remove the grass clippings or use a mulching mower.

In addition, be sure to watch for a blue-grey tint and limp areas of your lawn. This is not a fungus. It is caused by dehydration and is an indication that immediate watering is needed. This will usually occur on tops of mounds, or areas where sprinkler coverage is not adequate. (It is acceptable to water in full sun, it will not burn the blades.) Spraying will usually stop the disease from spreading. Be patient with areas that have been damaged, often a high percentage of recovery will occur. If reseeding or sodding is required wait until the cooler times of the year. Diseases are almost always related to heat and moisture. The most susceptible months of the year are July, August, and September. High humidity creates an ideal disease environment. However, poor irrigation practices can also promote disease development. The longer moisture stays in the turf foliage the greater the disease risk. Therefore, do not water at night, (between 4 pm and 4 am) since the lawn will stay wet until morning. It is best to irrigate between 6 am and 8 am. Weather permitting, do not water established sod everyday. Also, reduce fertilization in the summer.Brown lawn areas are most commonly caused by one of three types of problems: Improper watering, burn, or disease. Check for watering and burn problems first before treating for disease.

Excess water can cause turf to die by suffocating the plants roots or rotting its crown. This generally occurs in low spots or shady areas. Check for muddy soil, algae crusts, or slimy rotting grass. To correct problems in the shade reduce irrigation time to that area or replace the sprinklers with lower volume heads. Low spots must either be raised or drained.It’s important to note glyphosate is a broad-spectrum herbicide, meaning it will kill any plant it touches. Practice caution before applying and read the product label. Most herbicides require waiting a period of at least two weeks post-application to apply new seeds. This waiting period ensures that the weed control is no longer active in your lawn and your new seedlings will be able to germinate.

Starting from scratch may seem extreme, however, reseeding is sometimes your only option if you don’t want to fight weeds for years to come. In order to have uniform, green grass, you have to hit the reset button and reseed your lawn.Cool-season grass types, such as tall fescue, Kentucky bluegrass, and perennial ryegrass, grow best when planted in the fall or spring. The best time to reseed a lawn with cool-season grass seed is in the early fall, between mid-August to early October, and at least 45 days before the first fall frost.

The best time to reseed is unique to your type of grass and climate conditions. However, for cool-season lawns, the cool air temperatures and warm soil in early fall ensure proper seed germination. It’s important to time your reseeding project just right in order to achieve a lush, green lawn.Apply early in the morning and preferably when temperatures are between 65 – 85°F. Make sure you don’t apply on a windy day to avoid product drifting to nearby plants.

Warm-season grasses, such as St. Augustine, bermudagrass, and zoysia, have a higher tolerance for warmer air temperatures and require more sunlight than cool-season grasses.Not only does early fall have the best weather conditions, and soil temperatures, but it also allows you enough time to kill your existing grass and reseed your lawn before the first frost arrives. Typically in early fall, the air temperature is cool enough that the seedlings won’t dry out and warm enough that conditions are right for seedlings to germinate. Reseeding in fall also gives the grass time to grow and establish a deep root system before the hot summer months.

While overseeding is a great way to thicken an existing lawn, Jonathan Green recommends reseeding a lawn when more than ½ of your yard is full of weeds or bare spots. Prior to reseeding, use an herbicide with an active ingredient such as glyphosate to kill your lawn. This type of herbicide is best absorbed during the active growing period for cool-season grass, which is in spring and fall. If you miss the window to reseed in early fall, the second-best time is early spring, between mid-March to early May before the weather gets too hot. Reseeding cool-season grass in weather that is too hot or too cold can inhibit the growth of young grass seedlings. In order for grass seedlings to germinate, soil temperatures need to be at least 60°F.

If you have cool-season grass, it is imperative that you begin your reseeding project in early fall so that you have enough time to kill the lawn first, then wait at least two weeks (depending on the active ingredient) after applying the herbicide to seed. If you reseed during the summer, the heat causes stress to grass seedlings and makes it difficult for them to grow. Reseeding in winter presents even more challenges, as there is less rainfall and both air and soil temperatures are too cold for seed to germinate and survive. Once you make the decision to reseed and give your lawn the best treatment possible, the end result will be a revitalized lawn full of stronger, healthier grass.Reseeding at the right time allows your grass to grow healthy and strong, instead of struggling against the blaring summer sun, or cold winter days. Once you establish the best time to reseed for your grass type, you can begin growing a new lawn full of healthier, greener grass. Reseeding is often confused with overseeding, which is the process of applying seed to your existing lawn to thicken up thinning areas in your yard. Reseeding, in comparison, involves first, killing the existing grass and weeds, then starting over with new grass seed. St. Augustine is most popular in California but can also be found in areas of the Gulf Coast, in Hawaii, Mexico Africa, Australia, South America, and the Caribbean. The warmer the weather gets, the more blue-green in color the grass blades become.

St. Augustine grass is not picky about soil type. In fact, as long as your soil is well-draining, it should perform quite well. It also does well in the heat.Marathon grass vs. St. Augustine – what’s the difference? Both of these popular warm-season lawn grasses have their pros and cons, but one may be a better fit for your yard than the other.So, what’s the verdict? Marathon grass is a great option for homeowners who are looking for an affordable and low-maintenance lawn. If you have children or pets, this type of grass will also be able to withstand a lot of wear and tear.Marathon grass is a relatively tough grass, but if you overseed it with other types of grass – like St. Augustine – you may find that it becomes quickly overtaken.