Oncidium Orchids For Sale

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When you visit the site, Dotdash Meredith and its partners may store or retrieve information on your browser, mostly in the form of cookies. Cookies collect information about your preferences and your devices and are used to make the site work as you expect it to, to understand how you interact with the site, and to show advertisements that are targeted to your interests. You can find out more about our use, change your default settings, and withdraw your consent at any time with effect for the future by visiting Cookies Settings, which can also be found in the footer of the site.The most common issue, other than failure to rebloom (see above) is discolored leaves, which is usually the result of improper light. An oncidium orchid getting the right amount of light will have light, yellow-green leaves. If the leaves are dark green, it is likely not getting enough light, and too much light can make the leaves red-tinted.

Jon VanZile was a writer for The Spruce covering houseplants and indoor gardening for almost a decade. He is a professional writer whose articles on plants and horticulture have appeared in national and regional newspapers and magazines.
Oncidiums are popular indoor orchids for a very good reason—their large sprays of flowers often sag with dozens of blooms. One common name for these orchids—dancing lady—is assigned because of the highly modified ruffled flowers.There are actually several hundred recognized Oncidium species, but the naming is not stable, so there is considerable flux as experts reclassify plants. They are readily hybridized, so new varieties are regularly introduced. The most common oncidium orchids grow well under normal indoor conditions. They have large pseudobulbs (a bulbous thickened area of the stem) that come up from a mass of thin white roots. The large leaves can get up to 2 feet long and emerge from the pseudobulbs. Oncidiums typically flower in the fall.

Does Oncidium orchid smell like chocolate?
Oncidium Sharry Baby is one of the most popular orchids ever, and it’s easy to see (or smell) why: its blooms smell like chocolate! This orchid is perfect for folks who need a chocolate fix, but don’t want the calories.
Orchids can be notoriously fickle, but oncidiums are often one of the easier orchids to grow, once you get the growing conditions mastered. But watch for these issues:During the growing season, feed with a weak orchid fertilizer bimonthly or scatter slow-release pellets in the growing media at the beginning of the season. A 30-10-10 formulation is a good choice for bark-based potting mix; for woods slabs, use a 20-20-20 formulation. Although there are many species, in general, the larger the plant, the more heavily it will feed.

Oncidium orchids are by nature epiphytic plants that dwell on tree bark rather than in soil, and they favor more sunlight than other orchid genera. Placing them in an east, west, or south-facing window lined with a sheer curtain provides an appropriate amount of light.
When your orchid stops blooming, wait for the flowers to fall off naturally and allow the stem to die entirely before cutting it back. Pruned orchids may generate a second flower stalk, though once-a-year blooms are common.’Sharry Baby’ has a distinct chocolate aroma. ‘Twinkle’ has a vanilla-like smell. Another popular fragrant orchid is the miniature Oncidium cheirophorum. If you enjoy the smell of citrus, try Oncidium chrysomorphum.With careful control of conditions, it’s possible to get your oncidium to rebloom two or even three times a year, with blooms present nearly year-round.

There are also many hybrids available, crosses between two Oncidium species. Although oncidiums are known for their yellow flowers, other varieties are available. Oncidium ‘Sharry Baby’ is sometimes called the chocolate orchid for its sprays of brownish flowers with a rich cocoa scent.

Propagation of orchids by seed is a tricky operation that is usually practiced only by professionals or very serious amateurs. It requires special materials and carefully controlled conditions. In nature, seeds germinate only through a complex interaction with a mycorrhizal soil fungi, and achieving artificial germination requires laboratory-like conditions. Few amateurs are willing to spend months getting seeds to sprout and sometimes years to nurture the seedlings into flowering plants, when vegetative propagation by simple division is relatively easy.Various Oncidium species differ somewhat in their water needs, but in general, most need to be watered every two to ten days during the growing season. Those with thicker leaves and roots can be watered less frequently than those with thin leaves. Use lukewarm or room-temperature water when the growing medium is half-dry.

Because oncidiums have large, fleshy pseudobulbs and masses of roots, they are prone to rot. If you see a pseudobulb beginning to rot, cut it out with sterile snippers.
Cating, R. A., and A. J. Palmateer. Bacterial Soft Rot of Oncidium Orchids Caused by a Dickeya Sp. (Pectobacterium Chrysanthemi) in Florida. Plant Disease, vol. 95, no. 1, 2011, pp. 74–74., doi:10.1094/pdis-07-10-0523

In the winter, reduce watering to bimonthly or less. Oncidium orchids can withstand considerable drought because of their large pseudobulbs. Wrinkled pseudobulbs generally indicate a lack of water.Oncidiums can be found in many habitats, from semiarid subtropical lowlands to cool and misty cloud forests. The ideal growing environment is 55 to 60 degrees Fahrenheit at night, and 80 to 85 degrees during the day. Temperatures up to 95 to 100 degrees can be tolerated if these high temps are matched by increased humidity and air circulations.When the leaf tips on an orchid turn brown, it is usually a sign of chemical burn caused by excessive fertilization. Give the plant extra water to flush the salts from the soil.

Oncidiums are much more forgiving of bright or direct light than other popular orchids, especially the Phalaenopsis. Oncidiums can handle direct morning light and even prefer bright to very bright conditions. They tend to enjoy the same light that Dendrobium species orchids prefer.
Many oncidiums will form large clumps of pseudobulbs and develop into rather large plants. They can be easily divided into clumps when repotting. Just make sure you have at least three pseudobulbs in each division. Here’s how to do it:Oncidiums are magnificent in bloom. A large, well-grown plant might yield six or seven-branched sprays of yellow flowers over a period of several months, often beginning in late summer. The effect is very much like a cloud of buttery butterflies. But orchids are often purchased while they are already in bloom, and it’s often a disappointment when the orchid fails to rebloom after the spectacular initial display. Oncidium orchids are epiphytic plants that do not grow in traditional soil or potting mix at all, but rather they are normally potted in a bark-based potting medium. This medium is typically sold as orchid mix, and has very good drainage. Dark spots on leaves is usually the result of a bacterial infection, but it is rarely very serious. Improving air circulation in the room will usually cause the infection to vanish.Oncidiums like to be slightly underpotted in a very free-draining bark-based potting media. In general, only repot when necessary. An orchid will often thrive happily for several years before it becomes so root-bound that division and repotting is necessary.

It is a thermophilic plant. In summer, the average day temperature is 29-31 ° C, at night 22 ° C, which gives a daily difference of 7-9 ° C. In spring, the average day temperature is 33-34 ° C, the night 15-22 ° C, and the daily span lowers from 18 to 11 ° C. The average winter temperature is 27-31 ° C during the day and 12 ° C at night, giving a daily difference of 15-18 ° C.
Habenarias have been promoted as being among the most difficult orchids to grow. Yet if one pays particular attention to their general needs, they are actually one of the easiest. The most important key to their culture is watering. Asian species of Habenaria go through a definite monsoon-type growing season. They are developed from corms that go totally dormant in the parched soil of their native habitat, so parched that the soil is rock-hard and cracked. In the early spring, the rains soften the soil and spark the Habenaria into new growth. The plants are now kept in a constant state of wetness, growing at amazing rates until midsummer. At the point when the rosettes of leaves seem to be slowing down, this is the time to watch for emerging flower spikes from the center of the rosette. The plant should still be kept continuously moist until the last flower has fallen off. At this point, the plant must still be watered, but allowed to dry slightly between waterings. This is done because the plant is now producing new corms for next year’s growth under the soil. During the active growth, the plants should be fertilized every week a fertilizer like Mangala Bio-20, 1ml per litre of water. You can use balanced fertilizer throughout the year, but you can also use a fertilizer with increased nitrogen content from spring to mid-summer, and then in the late summer and autumn, use a fertilizer with a higher content of phosphorus. After flowering, the vegetation starts to brown, and the plant begins to enter dormancy. The tubers are still growing and storing energy for next year’s growth so just limit your watering until the plant dies back. Don’t be in any hurry to remove the dead top vegetation from the pot because that will help you orient the tubers properly during the repotting process.The plants should be watered well during the period of active growth, but the roots must always dry quickly after watering. If the plants are grown in pots, the potting media around the roots should be airy and never soggy or spread. When new growths reach maturity in the autumn, the amount of water should be gradually reduced.

Habenaria should be grown in containers filled with a thick, quickly drying media. When the flowers turn yellow and the leaves turn yellow, let the plant rest, stopping watering. You should never take out these parts because it can destroy new increments. When the new increment is visible, starts watering gradually. They should be planted into containers that allowing some growth. For example, a 12 cm flowerpot can easily accommodate 30 flowering plants.

Habenaria needs a light level of 15000-23000 lux. The plants require moderate shade, with scattered light, i.e. they should never be exposed to the direct sunlight of the midday sun. Strong air movement should be ensured all the time.After each flowering, the plant will get into dormancy. Habenaria should be stopped for watering after the leaves have fallen, and the potting media should be kept only moist until new growths appear in spring. From this moment, gradually increase the amount of water, watering from the bottom. Fertilization should be reduced or eliminated until new growths appear in the spring and more abundant watering starts.

Now comes the hard part. When the foliage starts to become spotted and looks as if it is dying, stop watering the plant. Give no water at all. Repot in dry mix at this time. Then around February to March, take a look every week and see if anything is poking up through the top of the soil. If it is, water it. If not, put it back. An occasional misting by the middle of April can spark the plant if no signs of growth are present. Habenarias purchased as bare-root corms should not be planted until April, as the damp soil mixes will start growth and alter their growth cycle unfavourably.

When you buy an orchid, you might find that it is potted only in sphagnum moss with no other materials mixed in. This is generally done because sphagnum moss is lightweight, and orchids potted in this material cost less to ship. While some people successfully grow orchids potted only in sphagnum moss, we don’t recommend trying this. It requires much more careful attention to keep your orchid happy when it’s just in sphagnum moss.
While you can use any bark for orchids, the best choices are lightweight and relatively bulky because these allow for the best drainage. However, you should buy commercial bark rather than harvesting it from trees yourself. Commercial bark is usually sterilized, while bark you harvest yourself might have disease or insects that could potentially harm your orchid. While you could technically harvest your own bark, it’s not usually worth the risk of losing your orchid. While you can technically use any type of bark for orchids, avoid using bark that breaks down too quickly. For example, soft pine degrades quickly, which means that you’ll have to repot your orchid sooner. Too much repotting can disturb or damage the roots, so it’s better to stick with bark that is more durable. In our Facebook group of orchid lovers, we’re dedicated to creating a rich and engaging environment where plant lovers can come together and share tips, tricks, and experiences.Since most orchids are epiphytes, their roots don’t handle traditional potting soil well. Soil can prevent orchids from getting enough air to their roots; instead, bark mix can come closer to mimicking these orchids’ natural environment. As you can see, creating your own orchid bark mix is relatively easy. Remember that orchids only need a small amount of growing medium, so you don’t have to use large quantities of each ingredient. Mulch should not be substituted for orchid bark. Most mulch is designed to break down more quickly than orchid bark. Also, mulch can be made up of a variety of materials, not all of which will be good for orchids.

Can I use just bark for orchids?
Bark doesn’t hold water well, so while orchids can technically grow in bark alone, you’ll have to be prepared to water much more frequently. That being said, some orchids, like phalaenopsis, do fine when grown in bark in a humid environment because their roots are able to easily absorb moisture from the air.
While it may be annoying that you have to use a different growing medium for orchids than you use with other houseplants, there’s a good reason why orchids need bark mix. They aren’t just being picky!Sphagnum moss retains water well, so this makes it a good addition to an orchid growing medium. Because it is so absorbent, you only need a small amount to ensure that your growing medium doesn’t dry out too quickly.

Similar to sphagnum moss, coco coir retains water well. It also allows air to reach your orchid’s roots. While not every orchid growing medium recipe calls for coco coir, it can be a good addition.
Orchid bark mix allows air to easily circulate around the roots. Regular soil would be way too dense for a plant whose roots are used to growing mostly uncovered.

Bark mix allows water to drain quickly after orchids are watered. This is important because orchids get root rot easily if their roots are allowed to remain saturated in water for too long.
Bark forms the base of most growing mediums for orchids unless you are choosing to mount your orchid. The advantages of bark are that it doesn’t break down too quickly, it allows air to reach your orchid’s roots, and it allows water to drain away from the roots quickly.

Most orchids do not grow well in soil because soil is too dense. Instead, they should be grown in a bark mixture or other materials that allow for good aeration, adequate drainage, and some moisture retention.
Small amounts of grit or perlite may be added to an orchid growing medium to increase aeration. Orchid roots are happiest when they have good access to air. Perlite also has the added advantage of retaining moisture.

How many times do Oncidium orchids bloom?
There is no ‘blooming season’ for Oncidiums – they bloom whenever a new growth matures which can be 1-2 times a year.
Other popular choices for orchid bark mix are coastal redwood bark and Osmunda tree fern fiber. These are not quite as readily available, but they do work well. Be aware that redwood bark can be harmful to pets, though. Having the right growing medium for your orchid is vital. While there are several steps to making sure your orchid thrives in your home, intensive care will not make up for using a growing medium that is not suitable for your orchid. Once you have the right growing medium, you can then worry about the more finicky aspects of caring for your orchid—like making sure it gets exactly the right amount of light. However, in addition to draining well, you also want your orchid’s growing medium to retain some water. Most orchids grow in tropical or semi-tropical environments. Bark by itself doesn’t hold on to water very well, and if that’s all you used for your orchid, you’d find yourself having to water your orchid very frequently. For this reason, most bark mixes designed for orchids contain some other ingredients that help the medium hold on to a reasonable amount of water without drowning the orchid’s roots.Step 2: Mix 1 part sphagnum moss, coco coir, or perlite in with the bark. The traditional choice is to use sphagnum moss, but you can also use the other two options.Generally, a combination of bark and sphagnum moss is used to get just the right balance of moisture retention. Bark by itself dries out too quickly while sphagnum moss just keeps too much water around the orchid’s roots when it’s on its own. However, when you put the two together, you get a growing medium that’s just right. We’ll talk about the best ratios and other options a little further down in the article.

Fine-grade bark is better for orchids that prefer more humidity because it doesn’t dry out as quickly. If your orchid needs to be watered before it dries out, fine-grade bark is the best choice.
For continued success, you can explore our other articles or visit our online shop for plant care products that are sure to keep your plants boasting rich green leaves and big, bountiful blooms year-round.Coarse-grade bark is better for orchids that need their roots to dry out between waterings. If your orchid only needs to be watered once the growing medium has dried out completely, coarse-grade bark is the best choice.

What is the best Oncidium medium?
charcoal It’s important to use the best medium for epiphytes, such as charcoal and cocopeat or pine bark. The fibers in cocopeat will provide adequate drainage for your orchid, which is important for its growth. Choosing a correct pot is also important. Never pick a too large pot for your oncidium.
Unlike most houseplants, orchids don’t grow well in soil. Instead, they need a growing medium that is less dense and allows for more air circulation. This means that you can’t use regular potting mix when growing orchids. What you should use instead is an orchid bark mix.Many orchids are epiphytes in their natural growing environment. Epiphytes are plants that grow on another plant or object for support. These plants don’t grow in soil as most other plants do.

As you might imagine, bark mix is a growing medium that is made primarily of tree bark. Bark mix also contains a smaller amount of some material that retains water well. The combination of bark along with a moisture-retaining material creates a suitable growing medium for most types of orchids.While there are many good-quality commercial bark mixes made for orchids, it is also very easy to make your own bark mix for your orchids. When you make your own mix, you have control over the composition of the mix. While bark and sphagnum moss are the most common ingredients in homemade orchid bark mix, they aren’t the only options. As mentioned earlier, the biggest concerns with orchid bark mix are that it must allow enough air to reach the roots and allow water to drain quickly while still retaining an adequate amount of moisture. If you don’t want to grow your orchid in a pot, mounting your orchid is a good choice depending on the type of orchid you have. While mounted orchids usually have to be watered more often, they don’t require a bark growing medium like potted orchids do.Fir bark is the most commonly used bark for orchid bark mix. However, it’s important to pay attention to the grade. Fine bark retains more moisture and doesn’t dry out as fast. Coarse bark allows for more aeration but dries out more quickly. While coarse bark is cheaper, it also will decompose faster.

Bark doesn’t hold water well, so while orchids can technically grow in bark alone, you’ll have to be prepared to water much more frequently. That being said, some orchids, like phalaenopsis, do fine when grown in bark in a humid environment because their roots are able to easily absorb moisture from the air.
You can also try using coco coir on its own as a growing medium. Because it both retains water and allows for aeration, it has similar qualities to both bark and sphagnum moss, which are the base of most orchid growing mediums.

You can buy a commercial bark mix for your orchids. While the exact composition of commercial mixes varies, it’s generally some combination of bark mix along with sphagnum moss, perlite, coco coir, or another material that retains moisture. Check the label before buying a commercial bark mix to see what materials are included in the mix.
Also, it’s important that you repot your orchid every year or two. Over time the bark begins to break down. As this happens, the bark becomes denser and less able to drain water quickly. This causes your orchid to be more at risk of developing root rot, so check your orchid every spring to see if it’s time to repot.So just because it is an orchid, doesn’t mean it loves to soak in water. If you do decide to keep your Phalaenopsis in moss, I would water it once every two weeks. If your leaves do get a bit limp, adjust the watering frequency to a point where it looks content. If you do decide to convert your Phalaenopsis to bark, water the plant itself before leaves start losing some stiffness. It is always better to underwater than to overwater, because once the root system has deteriorated; it is a bit harder to revive. I can guarantee that your survival rate will double as soon as you switch over to bark. Once you get a bit more experienced, you can then experiment with moss. And, when you do make that switch, do not forget to remove every trace of the moss at the roots before it becomes toxic. The acidic level within the moss does increase over time.

I recommend repotting orchids into bark that is of medium grade. Bark retains less water, which means you have to water it more frequently, but it will give your plant plenty of air and a better chance of surviving. Don’t get me wrong. Sphagnum moss is great for orchids, but it doesn’t give beginners the leeway they need to get a feel for managing the wetness levels of their new plants. At The Huntington, we stress the importance of air flow to a great extent. We repotted our whole collection of Phalaenopsis orchids into clay pots that have hand-drilled holes that provide better aeration for the plant. Terra cotta pots also dry out a bit quicker than the typical plastic that orchids comes in.
In the past month, you might have bought or received an orchid for Chinese New Year’s or Valentine’s Day. And maybe you are well aware of your bad history of killing every Phalaenopsis you buy from Trader Joe’s, but you are determined this time to keep your precious plant alive.For every 10 Phalaenopsis plants you buy today, nine of them will be potted up in Sphagnum moss. The orchid industry loves moss because it is very easy to pot and is lighter and cheaper than fir bark. The markets and nurseries adore Sphagnum moss also because it can retain water for a much longer period of time than bark, which means less watering. By the time you bring your orchid home and place it on your kitchen counter, it likely still has plenty of moisture and then some. Most orchid beginners think orchids need a lot of water, subscribing to the premise that since orchids are jungle plants, they must love to be soaked in water. But not all orchids like to be in a soaking wet potting medium; especially Phalaenopsis orchids. Too much water prevents air from reaching the roots. The moss simply retains too much water for the plant to survive. It allows molds to build-up in the root system and kills it slowly over time.

Do orchids prefer bark or moss?
The orchid industry loves moss because it is very easy to pot and is lighter and cheaper than fir bark. The markets and nurseries adore Sphagnum moss also because it can retain water for a much longer period of time than bark, which means less watering.
The dancing lady orchids being broad-leaved are well adapted to obtaining light. However, some bear thin leaves showing they cannot bear direct sunlight. Hence, it’s better to keep them under shade nets on raised benches away from the ground. The dancing lady orchid plants are ideally suited to a day temperature between 24-30 degree Celsius and 13-22 degree Celsius during the night. However, they can withstand up to -10 degree Celsius and 38 degrees Celsius for a short period of time. Oncidiums, one of the largest and most diverse family of orchids have long leaves and reach up to a height of 2m. Their blooms are modified and look ruffled, which is why these are called dancing lady orchid plants. With flattened pseudobulbs, Oncidiums have the ability to store both food and water. As such, water them once every day in hot and humid climates and less in cold and temperate climates. Tolumnia or Equitant Oncidiums being succulent in nature needs to be watered little. Choose pots with 1-2 inches of free space around the base of the plant. Pots bigger than this would let excess moisture stay back and rot the roots. Tolumnia, because of succulent in nature grows well if mounted. Give your plants sufficient light when using a nitrogen fertilizer to prevent rotting.These orchids grow well in areas having high humidity. If humidity is low, a humidity tray should be placed beneath the pots or if grown in a greenhouse, a misting setup would be ideal.

Oncidiums are a delight to grow especially for those who have limited space. They have flowers that come predominantly in the yellow-brown range but of late with a lot of intergenic coming into the market, it is easy to acquire almost any colour you can think of. If grown under ideal conditions, they can bloom several times a year and can also bloom with multiple spikes off a single pseudobulb. In our store you can find botanical and hybrid orchids, tillandsias and other epiphytes. We also offer accessories for growing, such as: pots, fertilizers and beddings. Wichmann Orchideen exists as a horticultural enterprise since 1897, thus for over 120 years. The operation is part of one of Europe’s oldest orchid growers. With our name we stand for the highest quality and tradition in the cultivation of tropical and subtropical orchid plants.In Wichmann get orchids from our own production. This ensures the freshness and variety of our products. For more than 4 decades, we have specialized in plant shipping.Give something special! Be it a birthday, Christmas or any other occasion – we always have the right gift for you. Give orchideen-wichmann.de growing and thriving joy. You choose from our extensive offer, write a card text and we take care of the rest. The package will be shipped safely and punctually with our shipping partner DHL. Especially our Christmas offer, for which we are always offering new and unusual but also well-tried varieties for our customers, is very popular.

Wichmann sends orchids both in the interior and throughout Europe. From Adaglossum to Zygopetalum orchideen-wichmann.de carries a wide range of orchid species. Phalaenopsis, probably the most popular orchid, Paphiopedilum, Cattleya, Miltonia, Dendrobium and many others.
You are interested in natural forms or especially beautiful orchid crosses, then you are exactly right with orchideen-wichmann.de. We cultivate many unusual and well-known botanical orchids on just under 9,000 m² of greenhouse space, some of which are rare in nature. In addition to orchid plants, you will also find the right accessories for your pets at Wichmann Orchids. From fertilizer and crop protection to the right casting tool, you will find everything you need for the orchid culture at home. You want to repot your plants, with us you get the right pots, the original orchid substrate and other earth aggregates for optimal care of the plants. If you need the right crop protection products, just search our online offer in the appropriate category or ask us through our contact form.We do not guarantee buds or flowers. Plants described as being in sheath, spike, bud, or bloom are in such stages when shipped from the nursery. We pack your plants very carefully, but the shipping process may affect these stages.

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For easy care instructions on how to care for oncidium orchids, CLICK HERE. You’ll get a PDF downloadable culture sheet with care requirements for oncidium orchids.
This site is owned and operated by Orchid Bliss LLC. OrchidBliss.com is a participant in the Amazon Services LLC Associates Program, an affiliate advertising program designed to provide a means for sites to earn advertising fees by advertising and linking to Amazon.com. Orchid Bliss LLC also participates in affiliate programs with rePotme, Awin, Etsy and other sites. Oncidiums are an excellent choice for beginner orchid growers for at least two reasons. First, many oncidiums do well on the windowsill. Second, oncidiums can grow even better at home than in a greenhouse since humidity levels are lower. Simply put, it’s much easier to grow oncidiums that thrive in warmer temperatures up to 90 F / 32 C in the summer and prefer temperatures in the 60s-50s F / 10-16 C in the winter.

While it may be tempting to dunk one orchid pot after another into the same bucket this practice is not hygienic and can spread pests and disease. It’s much more sanitary to allow fresh water from the faucet or from a watering can to flow through the potting mix.
Another small oncidium is ‘twinkle.’ This orchid comes in a variety of colors including white, yellow, and red. The flowers are tiny but profuse – like tiny lights in a night sky. Not only does ‘twinkle’ teem with flowers, but it also has a wonderful vanilla fragrance.

If you’d like flowers within a year, ask the seller for an oncidium that is blooming size. Otherwise, it may take at least a year or two before you see a flower spike.
Grow your oncidium in a bright east, south, or west-facing window. If you’re going for the best odds, the ideal location for oncidium orchids that results in the most abundant flowers is a bright east-facing window that receives a couple of hours of the morning sun.Adding a few cubes of wool rock to the potting mix will provide the open potting mix with extra water retention while keeping the mix from getting soggy. Like most orchids, for a vigorous root system, good drainage is a must.One notable difference between Phalaenopsis and Oncidiums is that several Oncidium varieties have a delightful fragrance. Sharry Baby is known for its chocolate-like aroma. Twinkle is another variety with a lovely vanilla-ish scent. Another popular fragrant orchid is the miniature Oncidium ‘cheirophorum’ which incidentally, is a parent of ‘twinkle.’ If you love the smell of citrus, try the oncidium ‘chrysomorphum.’

What is the hardest orchid to take care of?
Habenarias have been promoted as being among the most difficult orchids to grow.
I love the chocolate fragrance of my ‘sharry baby‘. In addition to its heavenly fragrance, this orchid is a reliable bloomer, sending out flower stalks multiple times a year.Oncidiums can put forth an amazing profusion of flowers. There are two main things your oncidium needs to bloom properly: enough light and the right temperature.As these orchids do not require a winter rest, continue to water and fertilize year-round. Watch the leaf tips for any signs of browning which indicates fertilizer burn. Regularly flush salts from the potting mix with fresh, clean water.

Do oncidiums like to dry out?
Most oncidiums like to dry out between waterings. However, there are some, such as the fan-leaved equitants, that do not tolerate being soggy at all. This does not mean that you should not water these orchids, it just means that they need to dry out between waterings.
To help you further, start by downloading my free cheat sheet to see where to cut the orchid flower spike after blooms have faded to trigger re-blooming. Click here, for the cheat sheet. It’ll be super helpful.In addition to providing your oncidiums with proper light and temperature, it is also helpful to know that many oncidiums will begin to develop flower spikes in the summer. Though this is not a hard and fast rule. As I write this, it is springtime and I have an oncidium in flower. Even so, it is useful to know when generally to expect flowers. Many Oncidiums are tightly packed in potting material that does not promote long-term health. The potting mix that I use and trust is by rePotme. This mix is made primarily of Fir bark and supplemented with horticulture charcoal and perlite to allow optimum airflow to the orchid’s roots. The size of the plant does not necessarily indicate that the orchid is large enough to bloom. Some oncidiums are very, very small. The ‘equitant type’ oncidiums grow in a 2” pot or are mounted. The flower is large in comparison to the tiny plant and can bloom multiple times a year.Oncidiums appreciate bright, indirect light (2000-4000 fc). If you are also growing Phalaenopsis alongside an Oncidium, keep in mind that the Oncidium is a medium-light orchid, while your Phal is a low-light orchid. Place your Oncidium a bit closer to the window than you would a Phal.

Oncidiums are orchids definitely worth growing and I’m confident you’ll be able to master their care needs. To begin, we’ll tackle temperature and light for dependable blooming. Next, I’ll show you what you need to do for regular care, watering, fertilizing, potting, and so on, for robust, oncidium orchids.
Alternatively, if you don’t have enough natural light, consider using artificial lights. Artificial lights can have spectacular results and are much less intimidating than you might think. If you’d like to learn more about artificial lights, CLICK HERE.

Open-minded about trying a new orchid variety? If you are, begin with an Oncidium. These orchids do well on a windowsill, and many have a delightful fragrance.
To make oncidium care easier, and more specific, concentrate on the most popular – and therefore, the most widely available oncidiums. These oncidiums are the yellow-flowered ‘dancing lady’ types.

How long do Oncidium orchids live?
An oncidium orchid can thrive for many decades if it is is divided and repotted every few years—and if it has ideal growing conditions.
Oncidium orchid varieties do well in a home environment. If you’re used to growing Phalaenopsis orchids, remember that Oncidiums prefer more light and have pseudobulbs, making them more drought-tolerant than the Phalaenopsis. And, if that’s not enough, many oncidiums have a delightful fragrance.Unlike Phalaenopsis and vanda orchids, Oncidiums are sympodial. This means that they grow from a rhizome rather than a single stem. Another difference is that they have pseudobulbs where they store water. These pseudobulbs should be firm and smooth.

To prevent pleated leaves, in addition to boosting humidity levels, increasing watering frequency will prevent dehydration that causes accordion leaves. Be sure that the potting mix is open and well-draining to prevent root rot.
While in active growth, meaning you can see roots and leaves growing, keep the orchid well watered. When not in active growth allow the Oncidium to dry out a bit between watering. This is a bit of a different watering approach than watering a Phal. Because phalaenopsis orchids don’t have water storage they should never completely dry out.

Use a high nitrogen fertilizer (9-3-6) liquid fertilizer every other week if your orchid is potted in bark. Those potted in other media should use a balanced fertilizer. Fertilizer should always be diluted to ½ to ¼ strength.
If the leaves on your Oncidium look pleated one cause may be lack of humidity, or it may just be a poor cultivar. Oncidiums like humidity levels between 40-80%. For home growers, keep humidity levels between 40-50% as higher levels promote mold growth on the walls of your house.To know if your oncidium needs to be re-potted, just take a look at the roots. If the potting media is fresh and has not decomposed or absorbed high amounts of fertilizer salts, new roots will grow down into the potting media. On the other hand, if new roots tend to grow out of the potting mix and down the side of the potting mix, it is time to re-pot.

When watering, water copiously, letting the water flow through the potting mix. After watering, allow the potting mix to dry between watering. As stated above, Oncidiums are prone to spots on their leaves. In addition to good airflow, taking care to keep water off the leaves when watering may also help to prevent leaf spots.

The Oncidium genus encompasses several hundred species and can be hybridized with genera such as Brassia and Miltonia resulting in a broad range of intergeneric orchids. In turn, these orchids have been hybridized to include an even greater variety of delightful colors, shapes, and sizes. Many oncidiums and their hybrids are well-suited to the novice orchid enthusiast.
Oncidium flower spikes can produce many flowers. In fact, you may be surprised by the seemingly relentless flower spikes that emerge, one after another. After blooming, the flowers will wither, turn brown and begin to drop. Next, the flower spikes will dry up and turn brown. It is a good idea to remove spent flower spikes with a sterilized tool, such as pruning shears. Disposing of old flower spikes will keep your orchid neat and tidy – helping to prevent the spread of pests and disease.

Are Oncidium orchids easy to grow?
While these orchids are mainly epiphytic (growing in trees), their habitats are so diverse that they can be one of the more challenging orchids for beginners. To help your Oncidium thrive, keep some simple growing tips in mind.
Oncidiums are a large and diverse species of orchid. With over 600 varieties. This means that when you take oncidiums as a whole it is difficult to generalize about their care.As noted above, there are many, many varieties of oncidiums. To simplify your oncidium’s care requirements and increase the chance of success, choose an oncidium with moderate temperature requirements. Just ask the seller if the orchid is a warm to intermediate grower. It is difficult for most of us to achieve the cooler temperatures required by cool-growing oncidiums. To promote reblooming, Oncidiums appreciate intermediate to warm temperatures (up to 90 F / 32 C in the summer with lows between 58 to 62 F / 14.4 – 17 C. Provide temperatures in the 50s and 60s F / 10-16 C in the winter). Optimally, provide your oncidium with a 10 temperature drop at night, warming up during the day. When your oncidiums are growing new leaves, roots, and pseudobulbs, keep an eye on the new pseudobulbs. After new pseudobulbs mature and are fat, full, and smooth, reduce watering slightly by extending the time between watering to allow the potting mix to dry out slightly between watering. This shift in watering will result in more flowers and a longer-lasting potting mix.You may also notice dark spotting on the leaves. These black or brown spots are likely caused by bacteria. Do not be alarmed; while spotting isn’t good, it is fairly normal for Oncidium orchids. Increasing air circulation with a fan pointed away from your orchids will help alleviate the spotting.

Originally from South America and Mexico, but now growing commonly in Asia, oncidiums are widely propagated and hybridized making them an ideal choice for the beginner orchid grower. Nicknamed dancing ladies because the oncidium’s large flower petal brings to mind full yellow skirts – especially when fluttering in a light breeze. However, not all oncidiums sport the yellow skirt.
If you own both an Oncidium and a Phalaenopsis, one of the first things you probably observed was how different their leaves are. Phalaenopsis leaves are much thicker than that of Oncidium leaves.Keep collections to yourself or inspire other shoppers! Keep in mind that anyone can view public collections—they may also appear in recommendations and other places. View Etsy’s Privacy Policy

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What bark is best for Oncidium orchids?
Many Oncidiums are tightly packed in potting material that does not promote long-term health. The potting mix that I use and trust is by rePotme. This mix is made primarily of Fir bark and supplemented with horticulture charcoal and perlite to allow optimum airflow to the orchid’s roots.
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